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The definitive guide to decoding outerwear jargon, from a guy who owns 30+ jackets

This time of year, my alarm goes off before the sun rises. I try to sneak in a walk with the dog before waking up the rest of the house, so the first thing I do each morning is check the temperature to see what to wear. In summer, it's easy: shorts and a T-shirt and I'm out the door. But this morning it was 49 degrees, and that wasn't going to cut it. Time to grab a jacket.

But which one? Walk into any REI or Dick's and you'll see roughly a gazillion jackets on the shelves. Waterproof. Windproof. Weather-resistant. Gore-Tex. A little overwhelming? A lot overwhelming? Don't worry, I'm here to break it down for you so you end up with a jacket that fits your needs.

Waterproof vs. weather-resistant vs. windproof

Back in the day, when you bought a raincoat, it was because it prevented you from getting wet in the rain. These days, things are less clear. There are distinct differences between options, though, so let's get into them.

Waterproof jackets

These are exactly what the name describes — built to keep you dry in a real downpour. Most of these jackets use membranes (like Gore-Tex, more on that later), taped seams, and even special zippers to keep the water from coming in. The cost? Breathability. Preventing water from getting in means it's harder to let the sweat and heat out, which can lead to clammy conditions.

Best for: Downpours and heavy snowstorms
Watch out for: Lack of breathability

A simple rain jacket doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg. One with features like an adjustable storm hood, adjustable drawcord hem, and even the ability to fold completely into its own pocket for packing can be found for well under $100. This one checks all of those boxes and is made from breathable material, so you won't get all sweaty when you're zipped up.

$75 at Amazon

I wasn't a fan of the Torrentshell when it was a 2.5-layer jacket. It blocked the wind and rain just fine, but I found it to be incredibly stuffy to wear, and it fell apart relatively quickly. Now that it has been upgraded to have three-layer construction — which substitutes a full, breathable membrane layer for the sprayed/printed half layer — all of those negatives have disappeared, while the price has remained consistent. You'd be hard-pressed to find a better-performing rain jacket for the price. Check out the men's version here.

$179 at REI

Weather-resistant jackets

These are what I would classify as "good enough". Weather-resistant outerwear won't keep you dry in a downpour, but if all you're dealing with is light precipitation or mildly breezy days, this is what you'll want. The trade-off here is that they're much more breathable than waterproof shells are, which means you'll end up less sweaty.

Best for: Drizzles and light snow

Watch out for: They'll eventually wet out. After that, you'll get damp.

Windproof jackets

A week or so after I moved to Colorado, I did a hike with my wife to an alpine lake. The sky was blue, so I kept my jacket in my backpack. At around 12,000 feet, I was standing on a ridge without the mountains shielding me from the wind, and at that altitude, gusts can hit 50+ miles per hour. This is where a windproof jacket comes in handy.

A good windproof jacket blocks cold air from cutting through your layers. The majority of waterproof shells are also windproof, but lighter, more breathable windbreakers are made specifically for this purpose. They come in clutch for running, biking and walking in blustery conditions. If you don't need full rain protection, this is the jacket for you.

Best for: Windy, dry conditions

Watch out for: Not always waterproof

The Houdini — available for both men and women — comes with me on every hike, rain or shine. At just over 3 ounces, why wouldn't it? It packs into its own pocket and is ready for unexpected wind or weather. Just know it's not fully waterproof, and if you're running in it, you'll get a little sweatier than you would without. 

$109 at REI

One area of a jacket where wind and water (and the cold that comes with it) tend to creep in is the zipper, so if you don't mind having to throw your jacket on pullover-style, an anorak like this is a great alternative. They also tend to be a bit lighter than their full-zip counterparts.

$40 at REI

Another feature most people don’t think about until they need them: elastic cinches. Whether on a hood or hem, they serve to keep the wind out and the warmth in. Elastic around the cuffs helps immensely too.

$140 at REI

What Is Gore-Tex?

In 1969, chemical engineer Bob Gore discovered that stretching heated Teflon created a material that was both waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex was born. It's basically a super-thin membrane that blocks water from getting in while letting sweat vapor escape, keeping you dry by not turning your jacket into a sauna. Add it to fabrics and you can make waterproof jackets, boots, shoes and even gloves that are comfortable enough to wear on the move.

Best for: Staying breathable while also being waterproof

Watch out for: Price — it can be very expensive.

If money were no object, this is the jacket I would buy for all of my cooler-weather activities, from skiing to hiking to ice climbing. Luckily for you, multiple colors in both the men's and women's versions of this jacket are currently 50% off.

$299 at Patagonia

Another way a Gore-Tex shell like this one can dump heat when you're on the move is pit-zips. Unless it is blizzarding, raining sideways or the powder is deep, I tend to keep mine unzipped. The Arc'teryx SL is also available in men's sizes.

$351 at REI

Not all Gore-Tex is the same. This jacket features two layers, which are less stiff but can end up being a bit more clammy and less durable than three-layer construction. That said, it also tends to be cheaper and less crinkly. Right this way to the men's version.

$249 at REI

Insulation: Down vs. synthetic

When it comes to higher-energy activities, say, hiking up a mountain, active insulation is both stretchy and breathable, keeping you warm and sweat-free while you're moving. (Chris McGraw/Yahoo)

When it comes to higher-energy activities like hiking up a mountain, active insulation is both stretchy and breathable, keeping you warm and sweat-free while you're on the move.

(Chris McGraw/Yahoo)

Insulation works by trapping your body heat in air pockets within a jacket, which then keeps you warm. There are three options: down, synthetic and active synthetic. Let's get into the differences between this trio of core warmers.

Down insulation

Down is one of the best insulators: It's ultralight and packs down small (just don't keep it compressed too long or the feathers can lose loft). The tradeoff? If it gets wet, it loses most of its insulating ability, unless it's treated with water-resistant coatings.

Best for: Cold, dry conditions

Watch out for: Useless when wet (unless treated), usually more expensive

If you live somewhere that has a winter season, odds are you've seen this jacket. Packed with 800-fill down to keep you toasty warm, with a weather-resistant outer layer that sheds light rain and snow, it's a favorite for one simple reason: It just works. Available in men's sizes too.

$279 at REI

That number in the jacket name? It refers to fill power, which is basically the quality of down in the jacket. The higher the number, the more lofted the down inside the jacket. A lower number can still keep you just as warm as a higher one, but it'll take more down and is usually heavier, less packable and, in many cases, cheaper. This toasty layer is the same price in men's styles

$129 at REI

Synthetic insulation

Made from polyester fibers, synthetic insulation mimics the warmth and loft of down, but it keeps working even when wet. It's not quite as light or compressible, but it's more reliable in wet conditions.

Best for: Wetter climates, unpredictable weather

Watch out for: Heavier, less packable than down

The first time I threw on the men's version of the Nano Puff, I thought to myself, "How the heck is this thing going to keep me warm?" It's way less puffy than down-insulated jackets I have worn, but it managed to do the trick in the middle of the desert in the wintertime as temps dipped below freezing, all without making me look like the Michelin man.

$229 at REI

While many synthetic jackets are marketed as water- or weather-resistant, I don't rely on them to keep me dry for long periods of time, durable water-repellent coating or not. That's why I make sure they're like this one — also available in a women's version — which is built for layering under a shell.

$100 at REI

Active synthetic insulation

This is the type of insulation you'll find in the Patagonia Nano-Air or The North Face Casaval Hybrid Hoodie (available for both women and men). It's stretchier and more breathable than standard synthetic, making it ideal for high-output activities like hiking, skiing or jogging.

Best for: Active pursuits where breathability is important

Watch out for: Not as warm when standing still

I bought my first Nano Air over a decade ago when it first came out, and since then it has been my first choice when it comes to an insulated jacket I wear on hikes, bike rides, fishing trips and climbs. The ultralight version is a tad less insulated than the original version, perfect for when you're working really hard outdoors.

$174 at REI

Another benefit of this style of jacket is that they're usually fairly slim-fitting, meaning you can throw them on under a shell without restricting your movements. You can snag this outerwear in men's styles too. 

$350 at REI

Layering vs. all-in-one

For years, all I wore in winter were all-in-one insulated ski jackets. After all, who wants to buy two or three specialized jackets when one will do the trick? Turns out, for me, layering is the better way to go. All-in-ones have to do a little of everything, which means they don't excel at any one thing. It's like going to a restaurant with a 20-page menu where everything's just OK, instead of a place with four dishes that are all incredible.

Layering gives you options. Absolutely no rain or snow in the forecast? I can leave my waterproof shell at home and just wear my down mid-layer. Heavy rain but 80 degrees? Just the shell. Blizzarding and 20 degrees? That's a call-in-sick day — but if I do go out, everything's coming with me. Layering allows for that kind of versatility, while an all-in-one jacket, though convenient, just can't match it.

That's not to say all-in-ones don't have their place. When temps drop near zero and I'm heading outside, I reach for my Fjällräven parka. It's windproof, waterproof and packed with insulation — a guaranteed warm-and-dry ticket. But most of the time, I prefer to mix and match with the options above. For well-rated all-in-ones, however, see below.

All-in-one doesn't have to mean pricey. This insulated jacket for both men and women will keep you warm and dry in all but the most extreme conditions, and at half off, it won't hurt your wallet either. 

$114 at REI

With 600-fill power down and a waterproof exterior, this parka will keep you both warm and dry. In fact, this is the parka that my wife chooses when the temperature plummets below zero. Anything warmer than that and she says it's actually too warm, which is why both of us prefer layering over an all-in-one jacket. That said, if you're going to be standing around or sitting outside in the cold (think an outdoors NFL game in December or January), this is the kind of jacket you'll want.

$350 at REI

Windproof, waterproof, 850-fill down and Gore-Tex. This parka has everything. If you're looking for a true all-in-one option that'll last years, if not decades, this is it. It's available for men in a jacket version with slightly different specs. 

$729 at REI

To hood or not to hood?

Nearly a decade ago, I was on a Zodiac boat in Antarctica photographing penguins when I turned the camera on myself and took a selfie. I was dressed in layers — base layer, mid-layer, synthetic jacket and shell — and every single one of them had a hood. I looked ridiculous, but I was warm.

Wearing four hoods at one time is definitely overkill, but of the 30-plus jackets I own, I can count on one hand the number that don't have hoods. Why? For one, I rarely wear more than two at once, so extra bulk isn't an issue. And if it starts raining, snowing or even if the wind picks up, I like being able to throw a hood up and block it all out.

Some people I know feel the opposite, which is why this is mostly a matter of personal preference. Still, a few things are worth keeping in mind. Adjustable hoods are essential for waterproofness, because not all heads are the same size. And if you're biking or skiing — really any sport with a helmet — you'll want to check fit. Most shells are designed to go over a helmet, while insulating layers like the Patagonia Nano-Air are meant to slide under one.

TK (Yahoo/Chris McGraw)

My tip: Choose a jacket that you'll use where you actually live, not where you wish you were climbing.

(Yahoo/Chris McGraw)

The takeaway

At the end of the day, the "right" jacket really comes down to your lifestyle and where you live. If you're in Seattle, waterproofing is king. In Denver, windproof and layering options matter more. If you're just trying to stay warm while walking the dog, an insulated all-in-one might be all you need. If you're skiing, hiking or running in the cold, you'll probably want to mix and match.

The good news is you don't need to overthink it. Pick the jacket (or jackets) that make the most sense for your daily routine and the weather you face most often. A reliable shell and an insulated option will cover 95% of what fall and winter throw your way. After that, it's just a matter of personal preference: hoods or no hoods, down or synthetic, sleek city style or backcountry rugged. Whatever you choose, you'll thank yourself the next time you step outside at 6 a.m. into 49-degree air with a leash in hand and a happy dog by your side.

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