This Epic Lodge Is Right in the Middle of Africa’s Serengeti National Park

Staying at the Four Seasons Safari Lodge in the Serengeti feels less like checking into a hotel and more like stepping into a scene straight out of a nature documentary—only with a champagne welcome and Egyptian cotton sheets. This is luxury dropped in the middle of Tanzania’s wild heart, where elephants wander past your balcony, baboons sometimes make themselves a little too comfortable, and the horizon seems to stretch forever.

If you’re plotting out your safari in Tanzania and wondering if this lodge is worth the splurge, let me help you out: yes, it is.

What Makes the Serengeti So Special

Serengeti National Park is the crown jewel of Tanzania’s wilderness—5,695 square miles of golden plains, acacia trees, and animals at every turn. More than 90,000 people make the pilgrimage each year, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the country’s oldest and most famous national park, and the stage for one of the most jaw-dropping spectacles on Earth: the Great Migration. Picture more than a million wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles thundering across the savanna, dodging lions and braving crocodile-infested rivers, all in search of greener grass.

Even if you’re not there for the migration, you’ll still find hippos grumbling in pools, giraffes stretching lazily toward the trees, and lions sunbathing in the tall grass. The Serengeti is the reason many travelers book a ticket to Tanzania—and it was certainly the reason I did.

The Four Seasons Safari Lodge Experience

The Four Seasons doesn’t do “rustic.” Perched on raised wooden walkways in the middle of the park, this lodge takes the classic safari camp idea and adds all the polish you’d expect from one of the world’s best-known luxury brands. Details are everything here. From the sweets waiting in your room to the staff remembering your name after a single introduction, the hospitality feels personal without ever being overdone. There’s no question that you’re in the wild, but here, the wild comes with turn-down service and a wine list.

Getting There

The Serengeti isn’t exactly around the corner, but the journey is part of the fun. From Arusha Airport, I caught a Coastal Air flight—a quick 45 minutes over patchwork landscapes of green and gold. The moment we touched down, a Four Seasons jeep was waiting with snacks and chilled champagne. (Yes, really.) A tip for fellow travelers: luggage on these small planes is capped at 15 kg (about 33 lbs) and must be packed in soft-sided bags. Hard-shell suitcases will not make the cut.

Safari, the Four Seasons Way

In Swahili, safari means “journey,” and the Four Seasons makes sure yours is as seamless as it is exhilarating. You can take to the skies in a hot-air balloon, walk the plains on a guided trek, or—like me—bounce along in a rugged jeep. On my half-day drive, I saw wildebeest stretching in endless lines after their migration, giraffes pausing mid-step to chew, and an entire hippo pool full of giant, grunting comedians. At one point, our jeep was stalled in a full-on wildebeest traffic jam—a slow-moving, utterly mesmerizing reminder that this was their road long before it was ours.

Spa in the Savanna

This isn’t roughing it. The spa is tucked into serene bungalows along the lodge’s elevated paths, where treatments inspired by African botanicals make you forget about jet lag or jeep bumps. A massage while looking out over the Serengeti? Not your average day at the spa.

Infinity Pool Meets Watering Hole

Here’s where the magic really happens: the infinity pool spills right into the view of a watering hole, which in turn spills into the endless plains of the Serengeti. Order lunch on the terrace, slide into a lounge chair, and watch elephants wander by as you sip a cocktail. I spent an entire afternoon doing nothing more ambitious than alternating between the pool and the view. It was, hands down, my favorite memory from the lodge.

Dining in the Wild

Meals here are a highlight, and not just because they’re included (yes, wine, beer, and spirits too). Breakfast at Kula’s is a lavish buffet that could carry you through the day. At Boma Grill, Maasai traditions take center stage—dinner is served around an open-air fire, with music and dancers bringing the night alive. One evening, I sat with a glass of Cabernet watching the performers’ rhythmic steps under the stars, and it felt like a dream. For something lighter, Maji Bar and Terrace—right by the infinity pool—serves pizzas, salads, and tapas with a view that never gets old.

Where You’ll Sleep

The lodge has 77 rooms, suites, and villas, all designed in a blend of colonial and African style. My Terrace Suite felt like its own private sanctuary: two rooms, two bathrooms (one with a soaking tub), an outdoor shower, and a private plunge pool that overlooked the park. I woke up to impala grazing in the backyard and giraffes strolling past. At night, I sank into the plush bed, the kind of sleep you only get after a day of fresh air and excitement. One note of caution: keep your doors locked. A curious baboon tried to break into my room one afternoon for the fruit platter. (He failed. I won.)